Saturday, April 2, 2011

The Inca Trail

The night before the trail we had all our stuff organised and went for a meeting at our tour operator's offices. There we met our guide Ernesto and waited for the other members of our team. It turns out that we were going to spend the next four days with Bryan (B-man) and Emily, who had the combined personality of a wet alpaca blanket!

Emily and Bryan "The B Man" with us at the start.



The night before the trail we had all our stuff organised and went for a meeting at our tour operator's offices. There we met our guide Ernesto and waited for the other members of our team. It turns out that we were going to spend the next four days with Bryan (B-man) and Emily, who had the combined personality of a wet alpaca blanket!
Beginnings of the trail

The bus trip to the start of the trail at Kilometre 82 takes around 2hrs and by 9am we had crossed the raging Rio Urubamba and were on our way. The first day was spent trekking through valleys and we reached our campsite at round 5pm. Dinner was delicious with fresh made herbal teas, soup, vegetables, meat, chicken or fish. The chef, Alejandro, could produce absolute miracles in his makeshift kitchen/tent.  

Alejandros masterpiece thoroughly enjoyed by Ernesto.


One of the many valleys on the way.

For a group of four there is a ridiculous 8 porters/cooks! These tiny guys weigh around 60kilos and carry massive bags weighing half their weight. They literally fly up and down these massive mountain passes in shorts and a pair of sandals, making us look silly in our thermal fleeces and hiking boots. 


















The boys blazing the trail up.

Day 2 was a tough day covering 18km and marks the highest point on the trail, Dead Woman's Pass, at 4215m. It was strenuous at times but we were kept entertained by our American counterpart, Bryan, who felt it was necessary to use a military issue camel pack rigged to counteract chemical bombardment and whose epic comments have kept us entertained for weeks since!

At the top of Dead Woman´s Pass


The trail is 49km long and consists of the steps that the Incas built over 500 years ago. This is only a small portion of the 40 000km of trail that the Incas built in their kingdom. Some of the steps are carved straight into of the rock face. There are many Inca settlements/towns throught the four days and Ernesto explained the names (that all sounded like Eros Ramazotti lyrics) like Wakamaka or Takawakamaka, their purpose and their tactical locations. He was a great source of information as well as a genuinely nice guy to chat or have a laugh with.  

Takawakamaka. Behind are the terraces where the Incas herded their guinea pigs.


At the end of the third day we were able to have some well deserved beers at our camp. The following morning we would leave at around 5am to reach Macchu Picchu two hours later. As we got to the famous Sun Gate to the lost Inca city we were greeted with the view of a massive cloud that filled the entire valley! As we descended further into the valley, the cloud cover lifted and we were treated to the sight of one of the 7 Modern Wonders of the World. It truly is an amazing place with sheer cliffs all around and the Urubamba river 400m below. It is no wonder that it was unknown to the rest of the world until 1911 when Hiram Bingham led his expedition there. 

















Blackouts after reaching the end of the trail

The city of Macch Picchu

After a guided tour of the city we headed back by bus to the closest town, Aguas Calientes, then from there got on the train back to Cusco for a well earned night in a comfortable bed.

View along the way.

Lima and Cusco

After a flight at 4 30am from Rio, we arrived in Lima only to get blocked by a couple of peruvian hookers at Lan airlines for not being black! This caused a change in plans and we now had to stay in Lima for the night. We arrived at our crusty hostel to find out that although the area was as dodgy as hell it is regarded as the Ceviche capital of the world, Callao. Ceviche is a Peruvian speciality with pieces of raw fish cooked in lime juice. That afternoon, following some damn delicous ceviche we verified the prior claim and added that it could even be the ceviche capital of the universe.

Ceviche Corvina: Lima Speciality



 Another ridiculously early morning followed and soon we were on our way to the city of Cusco. Stepping out the plane in shorts and slops we quickly learned that at 3400 meters cusco was an ice block and so swiftly hustled through our kit and changed in the arrivals hall (no scam).

Plaza des Armes in Cusco


After a week of carnival, two days of airports and early mornings we were keen to chill out and recharge the batteries for the Inca Trail! Cusco couldn't have been more fitting to do just that, we spent the days strolling around town eyeing out a spot for the next lunch of alpaca steak or guinea pig, which is a delicacy in the Andean region. The evenings were spent cooking in the hostels kitchen, much to the envy of our fellow backpackers as brother bielo had black out after black out in the kitchen.





Church in Main Square


View over the city





After a week of carnival, two days of airports and early mornings we were keen to chill out and recharge the batteries for the Inca Trail! Cusco couldn't have been more fitting to do just that, we spent the days strolling around town eyeing out a spot for the next lunch of alpaca steak or guinea pig, which is a delicacy in the Andean region. The evenings were spent cooking in the hostels kitchen, much to the envy of our fellow backpackers as brother bielo had black out after black out in the kitchen.


Roasted Cuy a.k.a. Guinea Pig, Deeelicious!
When we weren't snooping around town we spent time slothing on the hostel bean bags bags, and being the scholars we are, reading various chronicals of the Inca history. Although the five days spent cruising the cobbled streets of Cusco were very chilled it was a great way to prepare our selves for our next adventure, The Inca Trail.

Cruising the streets.

Cruising around with the same team from Rio was entertaining once again with many funny situations experienced and laughs had by all. At one stage all of us were cruising the streets in our newly acquired alpaca hoodies, gloves and beanies. We couldn't have looked more gringo-like even if we tried!

The boys in the quad at Pariwana Hostel


Monster burger at Los Perros Restaurant